Touring Old Delhi
I'm not quite sure what transformation took place on our 3 1/2-hour drive from Agra to Delhi, but my "rose-colored glasses" slipped down a notch on my nose. Greg would've been perfectly satisfied to head straight to the airport. "I guess I've had a good impression until today," he commented. It was probably the combination of many different things.
Here's some crazy perspective for you – with 25 million inhabitants, Delhi has a bigger population than Australia. Delhi is one of the world's most polluted cities; it is widely considered that living in Delhi cuts one's average lifespan by more than four years.
One of the best cultural experiences in Delhi is to explore the hectic streets of Old Delhi's Chandni Chowk...if you're adventurous...then navigating the maze and chaos of Old Delhi is "fun". Our guide said in the afternoons there are so many people you can hardly walk. I was watching people passing by, wondering why they would choose to come here to shop in this mayhem, and how they were able to navigate this labyrinth. I have a pretty good sense of direction but in these tight quarters and crowds, I had no idea where we were. It was almost useless to try to have a conversation with the guide since all of our energy was focused on moving. Staying together as a group of three was a constant frustration for Greg because no one tolerated our people-train and kept cutting him off from us.
To take a picture, I took one step away from the side and my guide quickly advised, "Don't stand in the center!"
When our guide announced, "Now I will show you some narrow streets," I was in disbelief they could get any smaller. But they could - we walked through lanes barely one-person wide.
Slotted in the ancient narrow alleys of Delhi are legendary restaurants serving a variety of traditional street food snacks - as they have been for generations. Some would view the reward of navigating the bedlam is getting to taste the variety of infamous street food snacks. But our sense of taste is not that refined. We tried a variety of food offerings: jalebi, paranthas, dahi bhalla, rabri falooda, and lassi.
The dingy lane for paranthas is famously known as Paranthe Wali Gali. Our guide took us to Pandit Gaya Prasad Shiv Charan, one of the first parantha shops established in 1872, being run by the sixth generation of the Sharma family. Though it appeared to be packed with customers waiting in line outside, somehow they managed to cram us in at a corner table in the small area they called a "restaurant".
A paratha is basically a ball of dough that flattened out into a disc, filled with a choice of ingredients and spices, deep fried, and served with a variety of dipping curry sauces and chutney. They came on a metal saucer with pumpkin curry, a peas curry, and a red sauce that tastes similar to a sweet and sour sauce. It was delicious and our favorite.
Apparently a long standing local favorite is something known as dahi bhalla - a piece of dough combined with a number spices like garam masala, cumin, pepper, and chili flakes, smothered in a scoop of yogurt and spoonful of sweet and sour tamarind sauce. Indians consider this pure culinary harmony but it was our least favorite.
The oddest was the rabri falooda, a combination of vermicelli, nuts, and yogurt in a secret, sweet syrup.
If you know anything about India, you probably know that there are cows everywhere here. They are highly revered: "we consider them our second mothers." Each city is different, but in Varanasi I was shocked to hear they freely wander during the day and find their way home at night to sleep inside the homes.
Entering Delhi, we left behind the world of cows. Although in India we expected the unexpected, it was somewhat surprising that Delhi is no place for a cow. Instead here they primarily have dogs (we actually saw one on a leash), goats and, of all pets...pigeons.
In Old Delhi, every second roof you will find a cage of pigeons. Pigeon rearing is such a popular hobby that flying them has to follow a timetable so that flocks don't clash.
With India's largest mosque - Jama Masjid - it is no surprise that Delhi is 70% Muslim. The large courtyard can fit 25,000 worshipers. However, during our visit it felt more like a hangout. It was here we had one of those moments that started our "transformation". We were heavily watched and people were drawn to us like magnets. Although the mosque was by no means crowded, we were constantly encircled by boys and men who wouldn't leave our sides. I didn't like it.
Our Old Delhi tour ended with a rickshaw ride. The slightly elevated and completely chauffeured viewpoint is definitely the most pleasant way to experience Old Delhi.
As a treat we splurged on a night at the only nice hotel in Old Delhi: WelcomHeritage Haveli Dharampura. It is a historic, restored Haveli that dates back to 1887. Besides the level of service, its luxuries we normally take for granted are tissues, strong WiFi, soft towels, instant hot water, and wall converters.
Here's some crazy perspective for you – with 25 million inhabitants, Delhi has a bigger population than Australia. Delhi is one of the world's most polluted cities; it is widely considered that living in Delhi cuts one's average lifespan by more than four years.
One of the best cultural experiences in Delhi is to explore the hectic streets of Old Delhi's Chandni Chowk...if you're adventurous...then navigating the maze and chaos of Old Delhi is "fun". Our guide said in the afternoons there are so many people you can hardly walk. I was watching people passing by, wondering why they would choose to come here to shop in this mayhem, and how they were able to navigate this labyrinth. I have a pretty good sense of direction but in these tight quarters and crowds, I had no idea where we were. It was almost useless to try to have a conversation with the guide since all of our energy was focused on moving. Staying together as a group of three was a constant frustration for Greg because no one tolerated our people-train and kept cutting him off from us.
At first, Old Delhi didn't seem any more crowded than other cities we visited.
Just to give you an idea of what a main street of Old Delhi looks like. Notice the guy peeing on the second floor? Men peeing on the side of the road is extremely commonplace.
Chicken doesn't get any fresher than this!
Narrow saree shops with heaps of fabric thrown about.
Balancing stuff on women's heads is a very normal sight.
Old Delhi was a hectic place to walk.
To take a picture, I took one step away from the side and my guide quickly advised, "Don't stand in the center!"
When our guide announced, "Now I will show you some narrow streets," I was in disbelief they could get any smaller. But they could - we walked through lanes barely one-person wide.
Slotted in the ancient narrow alleys of Delhi are legendary restaurants serving a variety of traditional street food snacks - as they have been for generations. Some would view the reward of navigating the bedlam is getting to taste the variety of infamous street food snacks. But our sense of taste is not that refined. We tried a variety of food offerings: jalebi, paranthas, dahi bhalla, rabri falooda, and lassi.
The dingy lane for paranthas is famously known as Paranthe Wali Gali. Our guide took us to Pandit Gaya Prasad Shiv Charan, one of the first parantha shops established in 1872, being run by the sixth generation of the Sharma family. Though it appeared to be packed with customers waiting in line outside, somehow they managed to cram us in at a corner table in the small area they called a "restaurant".
Pandit Gaya Prasad Shiv Charan has been in operation for 6 generations.
Yummy paratha with side dishes.
Apparently a long standing local favorite is something known as dahi bhalla - a piece of dough combined with a number spices like garam masala, cumin, pepper, and chili flakes, smothered in a scoop of yogurt and spoonful of sweet and sour tamarind sauce. Indians consider this pure culinary harmony but it was our least favorite.
Dahi bhalla spiced cooked dough smothered in yogurt and tamrind sauce.
The oddest was the rabri falooda, a combination of vermicelli, nuts, and yogurt in a secret, sweet syrup.
If you know anything about India, you probably know that there are cows everywhere here. They are highly revered: "we consider them our second mothers." Each city is different, but in Varanasi I was shocked to hear they freely wander during the day and find their way home at night to sleep inside the homes.
No cows in Delhi but still an ox pulling a cart.
Entering Delhi, we left behind the world of cows. Although in India we expected the unexpected, it was somewhat surprising that Delhi is no place for a cow. Instead here they primarily have dogs (we actually saw one on a leash), goats and, of all pets...pigeons.
In Old Delhi, every second roof you will find a cage of pigeons. Pigeon rearing is such a popular hobby that flying them has to follow a timetable so that flocks don't clash.
Cage of pigeons on the roof - this man owned 250 pigeons.
The man on the roof was controlling his flock of pigeons.
Kite flying is a huge Delhi hobby. Everywhere you looked, all those black specks, are kites.
Interesting view over Old Delhi rooftops. Notice the goat on the balcony in the middle of the picture (next to the pigeon)?
Jama Masjid, India's largest mosque.
Parade for Muslim holiday.
Peeking into a mosque.
Our Old Delhi tour ended with a rickshaw ride. The slightly elevated and completely chauffeured viewpoint is definitely the most pleasant way to experience Old Delhi.
As a treat we splurged on a night at the only nice hotel in Old Delhi: WelcomHeritage Haveli Dharampura. It is a historic, restored Haveli that dates back to 1887. Besides the level of service, its luxuries we normally take for granted are tissues, strong WiFi, soft towels, instant hot water, and wall converters.
There's no way I could reach the lock above the door to our room.
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